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Can You Sharpen A Chainsaw?

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Uploaded on Sep 20, 2010

How To Sharpen a Chain Saw

Do you remember
how your chain saw cut when it was new or last equipped with a new cutting
chain? It should cut like that--or better--every time you use it. If it's not
cutting like new, you're wasting time, damaging your equipment and putting
yourself at risk.

Manufacturers design chain-saw cutting chains for easy
maintenance. However, like most service tasks, to do the job right you must
first understand the basic principles involved.
How saw chains
work
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A saw chain comprises five basic parts: 1. left-hand
cutters
2. right-hand cutters
3. tie-straps
4. drive links

5. rivets

Because the cutters do the work of slicing and removing wood
fiber, they are the primary focus of our attention here.

Cutters have two
distinct features: a ramp-like depth gauge, or raker, at the front and a
gouge-like cutting element at the rear. The gulf between them is the
gullet.

The cutting element has a profile that looks like the number "7".
Its two surfaces (the top plate and side plate) contain three different angles.
The top-plate angle is the easiest to recognize. It's the familiar 30- to
35-degree rake you see when you look down on the cutter. The bevel beneath the
top plate is the top-plate cutting angle. Like a chisel, its optimum setting is
60 degrees. The third angle is the toughest to visualize. It's the side-plate
angle or the arc formed in the side plate. This angle typically is 85 degrees or
less, depending on the brand and style.

Here's how these angles combine
to cut wood. The sharp corner, where top-plate and side-plate angles converge,
slices across the wood grain. Alternating left- and right-hand cutters work on
each side of the cut. The chisel-like angle beneath the top plate scoops out the
chip. Cutters take turns biting as they "porpoise" through the cut at speeds
approaching 60 miles per hour.

The depth gauge controls the depth of each
"bite," or thickness of each chip. Depth gauges typically are 0.025 to 0.035
inch lower than the critical corner. This difference is what gives the corner
its ability to cut.
When to sharpen

Cutters are plated with a thin but
tough coating of industrial chrome. They would stay sharp almost indefinitely if
you always used them on clean wood. However, in the real world, wood often is
dirty or laying near the ground where contact with dirt, rocks, embedded grit
and other debris is difficult to avoid. At the high speeds of a chainsaw, it
doesn't take much to dull a sharp chain. That's why prudent saw operators often
brush, wash or chop off dirty areas before cutting. It can save a lot of time in
the long run.

Several signals tell you when it's time to sharpen: *
When the chain no longer self-feeds. This is the most obvious signal to
re-sharpen. A properly sharpened saw chain pulls itself down through the cut. If
you find yourself pushing on the saw to make it cut, or using the bucking spikes
to apply heavy leverage, it's time to sharpen the chain. * When the saw's
discharge is dusty. A properly sharpened saw chain expels nice, square wood
chips. If your chain saw is producing wood dust instead of chips, it's time to
sharpen. * When the chain looks shiny. Look at the top plate and side plate.
If the chrome plating has worn away, it will expose the steel underneath, and
the cutting edge will be shiny. To restore the cutting edge, you must file the
steel away until a thin overhang of chrome returns.

It's important to
stop cutting when you realize your chain is dull. Forcing a dull chain to cut
subjects the powerhead, chain, sprocket and guide bar to unnecessary wear and
tear. Studies show that dull or improperly maintained saw chains are the true
source of most bar-related failures.

Dull chains also wear on operators,
causing fatigue, frustration and impaired judgment. This is a safety hazard and
another good reason to stop cutting when the chain gets dull.

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Language:
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Country: Australia

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